It’s really hot right now in Brooklyn. Popsicles-for-dinner hot. What-kind-of-psycho-would-turn-their-stove-on hot. It’s the kind of weather that turns rational thoughts existential. A simple commute on the train feels like a test of endurance. Everything you know about acceptable standards for public dress flies out the window. Why would anyone in their right mind wear pants?

That said, I’ve always loved cooking in the summer. There’s an unfussy laziness to it that appeals to me. Produce is at its best, requiring the bare minimum of effort on my part. You can pretty much take anything and with a little bit of salt and pepper and olive oil throw it on a grill and call it a day. Food can be served hot or cold. Peaches and plums can be eaten recklessly over the sink. There’s almost never any good reason to turn on your stove.

This recipe is my exception. Say hello to your new favorite potatoes. I want to marry them—they’re that good. They’re loosely inspired by the wonderful Palace Potatoes at Biddeford, ME’s Palace Diner, a must-stop anytime I’m in Maine. Unlike those, however, which are served totally crispy (yet somehow remain magically fluffy inside) I’ve taken a little detour of my own here.

Growing up, summer meant endless potato salad. I’ve always had a soft spot for a cold potato. It’s the unsung hero of a cook-out. There’s something magical about how creamy they get once they’ve cooled down and absorbed their dressing. I suspect the average millennial lives in a post potato-salad world, but hear me out: this is the kind of potato you can take to the park for a picnic without worrying about it spoiling as there’s no mayo. The dressing is a bright and zippy gremolata that’s brimming with lemon zest and acid. I like to make a big jar of gremolata to keep in the fridge throughout the week. It’s the kind of no-cook sauce that enhances anything you put it on from cold, poached chicken to grilled zucchini.

Best of all, the potatoes are just as good served hot as they are cold, and there aren’t many recipes that can boast that kind of versatility. They require the tiny bit of extra effort to smash them and quickly brown in a griddle, but I promise you it’s worth it. You need that extra bit of flavor and the burst edges to soak up the gremolata. I’m a fan of making them early in the day before the mercury spikes and taking them out of the fridge when friends come over to grill. They’re equally great companions served hot right out of the pan with steak or fish. You can choose your adventure here! But I will say, I think they’re even better the next day, having marinated in the dressing overnight.

You could use any kind of potato here, but I prefer the small, yellow creamer variety. There’s something especially wonderful about the texture they take on after their trip to the griddle. While as humble as it gets, this dish is probably the one I receive the most requests to make from friends and family. Now you can get in on the secret, too!

Hot Or Cold Smashed Potatoes With Gremolata

INGREDIENTS:

2 lbs. Small Creamer or Fingerling Potatoes
2 Tbs Kosher Salt, plus more to taste
1 Lemon
2 Garlic Cloves, finely minced
1/2 Cup. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Cup Parsley, finely minced (from about 1 large bunch)
Black Pepper
Flaky Sea Salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Rinse and scrub potatoes and place in a large stockpot. Fill with water. Bring to a boil, season the water with kosher salt once the water comes to a boil. Cook potatoes for 10 minutes. You can test them by piercing one with a paring knife. If the knife releases without resistance, they’re perfect. Drain the potatoes in a colander and allow to cool for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, assemble the gremolata. In a small bowl, add the zest and juice of one lemon, minced parsley and garlic and stir together. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, stirring to incorporate. Season with black pepper and sea salt.

3. Place the potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet or cutting board. Using the bottom of a coffee mug or cup, gently press down until the potatoes burst, creating the “smashed” effect. You’re looking for them to be about a half-inch thick, enough that they’ll hold together and not totally lose their shape. Usually mine turn out looking like little pac-men.

4. Heat a griddle or heavy cast iron pan over medium heat. No need to add any oil. Griddle the potatoes, about 2-3 minutes a side, until they get a good golden crust. Transfer to a serving platter and sprinkle with sea salt.

5. Once the potatoes are all done, drizzle the gremolata over the potatoes in their serving platter. How much you use is up to you, but I’m a fan of the more-is-more method here. The warm potatoes will soak all that goodness up the longer they sit on the counter.

6. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and serve still hot or set aside and serve cold later. Win, win for us all!

Serves 4-6.