I’d like to introduce you to a new series on this site: Unauthorized. After getting a number of inquiries about where I’ve been, what I’m up to, and most importantly what I’m eating, I’ve decided to share my field notes with you. This is not a sponsored post and I’m no lifestyle expert (or any kind of expert, tbh). What I am is curious. On tour I developed the habit of keeping detailed lists for my favorite cities. It started on napkins and has grown into a giant catalog of Goole Docs. Friends email me for these lists, and I thought it might be easier to collate them all here. So! Let’s dig in. I’d like to kick things off with a trip to Ireland, where I recently spent a week hiking, drinking Guinness, and cavorting with livestock.

I chose the West Coast as my destination, given its density of hiking trails and proximity to the sea. I gave myself a good night’s sleep in Dublin at the start so I’d be well rested for the first day of driving on the right side of the car. Galway and Co. Clare served as my primary hubs, and I filled in the dots as I went, driving through the Burren and Connemara. I had great luck booking affordable cabins on AirBnb, the rest I was able to improvise quite easily thanks to Priceline and Kayak. I opted in the end to journey to Donegal, whose coastline felt even more jagged and remote. Given the chance to plan it again, I’d separate these into two separate visits. Donegal is a good ways North, I soon learned on the road, and pretty damn cold even in September. Live and learn!

That said, Ireland is a great destination for the solo traveler. Everyone I met was friendly, accommodating, and quick to tell me where to find a good bit if of craic, or fun (pronounced: “crack”). Sure, I had a few “oh shit, I’m gonna die!” moments driving on the Wild Atlantic Way, but I acclimated to the roads after two days. Some drives wound through a deep green valley for several hours where the only other souls I encountered were a handful of sheep. A windstorm in the North felled an giant oak into the motorway. Before I could wonder how we’d get past it, a trucker got out of his cab with a chainsaw to cut a perfect auto-sized passage through its trunk. The hiking trails are breathtaking, some better maintained than others, leading to sweeping views of the countryside—and then, (you guessed where this was going, right?) there is the food.

The butter is the freshest I have ever tasted, nutty and grassy and so good I never felt an ounce of shame slathering it by the inch on hunks of brown soda bread. Most cabins I stayed in were outfitted basic kitchens, so meals were simple: excellent cold smoked salmon from the Burren Smokehouse, soft-boiled eggs with fat, ochre yolks, and a few slices tart, thick skinned apples. In the cities and towns I had scones sandwiched with jam and double cream, terrific oysters in Galway, and always, no matter what, that delicious brown soda bread. Even better with a pint of Guinness. 

Here are some of my highlights below.

Galway & Connemara

Connemara National Park - I planned my trip primarily around hikes here. The park is quite vast and it boasts views of mountains, bogs and sweeping heaths. Parking is free, and you’ll find a once-in-a-lifetime view at the top the Diamond Hill trail. Not far from here is the tranquil Kylemore Abbey. This was my favorite hike of the entire trip.

McCambridge’s of Galway - Excellent food and wine shop, with superb selection. I stocked up on groceries for breakfast here. Do not miss out on the selection of cheese, butter, and what I lovingly referred to as the Carb Mountain, a great table of cream scones and delicious brown soda bread.

Moran’s Oyster Cottage - Um…you didn’t think I’d gloss over the oysters, right? Go here for a dozen Galway Flats or Clarenbridge Oysters, most are farmed naturally just steps from the restaurant. They’ve been doing things the same way there for 350 years and it shows.

McDonagh’s - Fish & Chips, as fresh as it comes, and open quite late. The cod or haddock arrives in a shattering golden crust with more chips than you’ll know what to do with. Malt vinegar is obligatory. There’s a more casual takeaway on the left or a sit-down restaurant on the right.

Tig Coili - Super cozy, classic pub. Come for a pint of Guinness and stay for the the traditional music, which is played 7 nights a week and is INCREDIBLE.

Coffeewerk & Press - After a few days, I switched to tea everywhere I went because hotel coffee is the worst. Coffeewerk, however, is legit if you wanna get a little bit fancy (and who are we kidding? It’s your vacation!). They have a tight pourover game, and the shop sells sweet prints and Japanese writing accoutrement that I’m still sad I hesitated to buy. Sit outside in the morning at one of their tables decorated with fresh flowers. Excellent people watching.

Tigh Neachtain - Handsome pub with lovely food and live music. Filled with little corners you can go hide out in with a book during the afternoon, accompanied by one of their giant cream scones with all the butter and jam. Great spot for dinner. Don’t forget to check out all the amazing whisky and scotch they keep on the shelf.

County Clare & The Burren

Cliffs of Moher - These sea cliffs are famous for a reason. You will never forget them, and while admittedly very touristy, the hike is breathtaking. Not far from here you can venture up to Lahinch Beach and watch surfers brave the freezing waters.

The Burren - The park features a lunar-like scape of limestone rocks and a variety of moderate to really challenging hikes. I did the White Arrow Route which was pretty easy, but I’d love to go back again for some of the more remote trails that trace up Mullaghmore Mountain. I was able to see the Poulmabrone Dolmen Tomb, the oldest megalithic tomb in the country. Photos don’t do it justice! A must see.

Burren Smokehouse - This is real deal. As a lox devotee, I would not sell you down the river on shoddy cured salmon. You can visit the smokehouse if you’re in Co. Clare, they also are stocked at McCambridge’s. I’m partial to the cold smoked salmon, made with honey, whisky and fennel. It’s all organic, caught in the rough and tumble waters right off the coast.

Byrne’s - In Ennistimon, you’ll find a great seafood spot. The chowder is light and bright, featuring parsnips, fennel and locally caught fish. Fare is on the lighter side and so very fresh. Solid wine list.

Gus O’Connors Pub - Classic pub situated in super-cute Doolin, not too far from Cliffs of Moher. The food is simple bar food, so stick to the classics. Guinness, as always in Ireland, is proper here.

Donegal

Slieve League - I am putting this here, even though I didn’t get to go due to some insanely stormy weather. For next time! These cliffs are 3 times higher than the Cliffs of Moher, offering one of the most staggering views (or so I’ve been told) of the Atlantic. Top of my list for next time.

Nancy’s - Situated in a warren of rooms that feel more like a series of living rooms than a pub, this restaurant is worth the drive to Ardara for its excellent seafood. Everything is freshly caught, and while simply prepared, is delicious. I had a plate of scallops with black pudding. Divine.

Carnaween House - Chic hotel near Portnoo with a nice restaurant offering wraparound views of Narin Beach. I stayed at a nearby cabin but came here for a nice dinner.

Narin Beach - A majestic beach with soft white sand. At low tide you can walk out to the monastery ruins of Inishkeel. There is nothing more magical than standing on the beach as mistrals blow the sand in beautiful patterns, and it’s an ideal spot to take in the sunset or go for a swim in the warmer months.

Maghera Beach and Caves - Unbelievable sweeping beach with wild dunes and a series of caves under the rock formations that become accessible at low tide. Like stepping back into some prehistoric time, when I went the weather was a bit stormy so there was no one there. Incredible!

Kilclooney Dolmen - This ruin is a portal tomb that dates back to 3500 B.C. Situated out in the middle of a farm, it is on private property but visitors are welcome. Park in the Dolmen Center lot across from the church and follow the path through the field for about 10 minutes. You’ll be greeted by a very sweet flock of sheep, so don’t forget to close the gate behind you! This one of the taller examples of a portal tomb, standing at about 6 feet tall. There is a smaller tomb just beside it that is partially collapsed. A powerful must-see.

Annora Pub - The owners are as lovely as the selection on tap, it’s the perfect spot for a pint after a walk on Narin Beach. Live traditional music most nights of the week, be sure to check the site first.